Koenigsberg marzipan

Marzipan is a confection consisting primarily of sugar and almond meal. Persipan is a similar, yet less expensive product, in which the almonds are replaced by apricot or peach kernels. Many confectionery products sold as marzipan are made from less expensive materials, such as soy paste and almond essence.German marzipan is made by grinding whole almonds with sugar and partially drying the paste, and French marzipan is made by combining ground almonds with sugar syrup. Some marzipan is flavored with rosewater. Spanish marzipan is made without bitter almonds.

 

It is often made into sweets: common uses are marzipan-filled chocolate and small marzipan imitations of fruits and vegetables. It is also rolled into thin sheets and glazed for icing cakes, primarily birthday and wedding cakes and Christmas cakes. This use is particularly common in England, on large fruitcakes. Marzipan (or almond paste) may also be used as a cake ingredient, as in stollen. In some countries, it is shaped into small figures of animals as a traditional treat for New Year's Day. Marzipan is also used in Tortell, and in some versions of king cake eaten during the Carnival season. Traditional Swedish Princess Cake is typically covered with a layer of marzipan that has been tinted pale green.

Although it is believed to have originated in Persia (present-day Iran) and to have been introduced to Europe through the Turks, there is some dispute between Hungary and Italy over its origin. Marzipan became a specialty of the Baltic Sea region of Germany. Historically, the city of Königsberg in East Prussia was renowned for its marzipan production. Today, the term Königsberger Marzipan still refers to a special type of marzipan in Germany.

Pomatti, Janatzi and Zappa: they are the names of the Swiss and Italian artists who settled down in Konigsberg and Gumbinnen in the late 18th century. However, no building facades or sculptures or anything else present in today's Kaliningrad is reminiscent of them, for their art was transient.

"The bread of Marcus" - that is the initial meaning of Marcipane - probably originated from Persia and is doubtlessly the most delicious evidence of the high culture prevalent in the Middle East around 1000A.D. Scholars may argue whether or not the 13th century crusades were a success; but the gourmets of southern Europe, where almonds - essential for the production of marzipan - grow especially well, owe their first marzipan delight to the Crusaders.

Some time later, around 1730, the first Venetian confectioners and candy makers headed for Moscow and Saint Petersburg, traveled to America and finally arrived in Eastern Prussia.

Already at that time, Konigsberg marzipan differed from its Hanseatic colleague from Lubeck due to its low sugar content, specific form and especially its rosy surface, achieved by oven toasting. Marzipan production was and remains laborious; it takes time and effort to blend the three main components - almonds, powdered sugar and rose water - and to transform this mixture into candies decorated with delicate ornaments. The first marzipan factory in Konigsberg was established by the Pomatti brothers in 1809. They were soon promoted to confectioners of the Royal Court - and not only due to their location near the royal castle.

Then follow the names one now hardly recalls-- Sterkau, Petschliess, Liedtke, Siegel, Steiner, Gehlhaar, Plouda on Kneiphof Island-- as well as trademarks that have survived to the present day, such as Wald in Berlin (the author's favorite) and Schwermer in Bad Worishofen. If Cafe Schwermer on Munzstrasse near Schlosssteich Pond (now, Proletarskaya Street near the Lower Lake) had survived, from its terrace one could see the Marinesco monument.

We will not argue about whether the royal tradition of "tanned" candies was to blame for their nonexistence during the Soviet era. However, it is comforting that recently Kaliningraders have not only had the opportunity to treat themselves to imported marzipans but also to try manufacturing marzipan themselves. And whenever you order marzipan bread to accompany your cappuccino in a cafe on Prospect Mira, the waiter calls it a Kaliningrad marzipan -- an interesting detail of local attitude.

Marzipan probably has the power to unite the most diverse cultures and nations. Its millennial history, beginning with Oriental sovereigns, then Italian doges, Russian tsars and up to the Prussian court is evidence of a brilliant diplomatic career! It is certainly not by chance that the traditional Konigsberg candy reveals all the variety of gustatory senses caused by the mixture of sweet and bitter almond only after you bite through the seemingly burnt crust.