Marzipan is a confection consisting primarily of sugar and almond meal. Persipan is a similar, yet less expensive product, in which
the almonds are replaced by apricot or peach kernels. Many confectionery
products sold as marzipan are made from less expensive materials, such as soy
paste and almond essence.German marzipan is made by grinding whole almonds
with sugar and partially drying the paste, and French marzipan is made by
combining ground almonds with sugar syrup. Some marzipan is flavored with rosewater. Spanish marzipan is made without bitter almonds.
It is often made
into sweets: common uses are marzipan-filled chocolate and small marzipan imitations of fruits and
vegetables. It is also rolled into thin sheets and glazed for icing cakes, primarily birthday and wedding cakes and Christmas
cakes. This use is
particularly common in England, on large fruitcakes. Marzipan (or almond paste) may also be used as a cake ingredient, as in stollen. In some countries, it is shaped into small figures
of animals as a traditional treat for New Year's
Day. Marzipan is
also used in Tortell, and in some versions of king cake eaten during the Carnival season. Traditional Swedish Princess Cake is typically covered with a layer of marzipan that
has been tinted pale green.
Although it is
believed to have originated in Persia (present-day Iran) and to have been introduced to Europe through the
Turks, there is some dispute between Hungary and Italy over its origin. Marzipan became a specialty of the Baltic Sea region of Germany. Historically, the city of Königsberg in East Prussia was renowned for its marzipan production. Today, the
term Königsberger Marzipan still refers to a special type of marzipan in
Germany.
Pomatti,
Janatzi and Zappa: they are the names of the Swiss and Italian artists who
settled down in Konigsberg and Gumbinnen in the late 18th century. However, no
building facades or sculptures or anything else present in today's Kaliningrad
is reminiscent of them, for their art was transient.
"The
bread of Marcus" - that is the initial meaning of Marcipane - probably
originated from Persia and is doubtlessly the most delicious evidence of the
high culture prevalent in the Middle East around 1000A.D. Scholars may argue
whether or not the 13th century crusades were a success; but the gourmets of
southern Europe, where almonds - essential for the production of marzipan -
grow especially well, owe their first marzipan delight to the Crusaders.
Some time
later, around 1730, the first Venetian confectioners and candy makers headed
for Moscow and Saint Petersburg, traveled to America and finally arrived in
Eastern Prussia.
Already at
that time, Konigsberg marzipan differed from its Hanseatic colleague from
Lubeck due to its low sugar content, specific form and especially its rosy
surface, achieved by oven toasting. Marzipan production was and remains
laborious; it takes time and effort to blend the three main components -
almonds, powdered sugar and rose water - and to transform this mixture into
candies decorated with delicate ornaments. The first marzipan factory in
Konigsberg was established by the Pomatti brothers in 1809. They were soon
promoted to confectioners of the Royal Court - and not only due to their location
near the royal castle.
Then
follow the names one now hardly recalls-- Sterkau, Petschliess, Liedtke,
Siegel, Steiner, Gehlhaar, Plouda on Kneiphof Island-- as well as trademarks
that have survived to the present day, such as Wald in Berlin (the author's
favorite) and Schwermer in Bad Worishofen. If Cafe Schwermer on Munzstrasse
near Schlosssteich Pond (now, Proletarskaya Street near the Lower Lake) had
survived, from its terrace one could see the Marinesco monument.
We will
not argue about whether the royal tradition of "tanned" candies was
to blame for their nonexistence during the Soviet era. However, it is
comforting that recently Kaliningraders have not only had the opportunity to
treat themselves to imported marzipans but also to try manufacturing marzipan
themselves. And whenever you order marzipan bread to accompany your cappuccino
in a cafe on Prospect Mira, the waiter calls it a Kaliningrad marzipan -- an
interesting detail of local attitude.
Marzipan
probably has the power to unite the most diverse cultures and nations. Its
millennial history, beginning with Oriental sovereigns, then Italian doges,
Russian tsars and up to the Prussian court is evidence of a brilliant
diplomatic career! It is certainly not by chance that the traditional Konigsberg
candy reveals all the variety of gustatory senses caused by the mixture of
sweet and bitter almond only after you bite through the seemingly burnt crust.
